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Days 16-18

By Mike Ingram

Day 16 - Butte MT to Missoula MT

To avoid single-lane traffic due to interstate construction, Lon had to put together a last-second route change for the first 15 miles of today. But with the help of the hotel's copy machine, he came up with side-roads that served us well as they showed us some scenic views northwest of Butte.

After the first snack stop, we got in a steady 18-mile climb that took us on Montana's Pintler Scenic Route and beside two high mountain lakes, Silver Lake and Georgetown Lake. We rode through cool winds and a smattering of light rain. Nevertheless, the subdued light and newly clean air showed us an attractive view of the lakes. Then, a "fast twisty" descent ended near the second stop. It was after this stop that we ran into (not literally) the most talked about event of the day--a genuine Montana cattle drive coming down the middle of the highway, featuring cowboys and cowgirls on horses; skittering, snapping blue tick cattle dogs; grimy pickup trucks with horse trailers and hay; and, of course, cattle with all their leavings. One of the wranglers said there were 300 head here and they were headed (ouch!) to new pasture about 3 miles up the highway. Many riders stopped to photograph this example of Western Americana. We had to negotiate our way through the herd by hugging the left side of the highway and trying not to get between any cow and her calf.

Luckily, lunch today was in a city park with a roof. So we were able to weather a brief, violent rainstorm that blew through. Many waited a few minutes for it to pass before continuing on. Much of our afternoon route took us beside the Clark Fork River, which flows many miles toward Missoula. But the rain wasn't through for many of us. Those still on the road toward the end of the day got a couple more soakings on the way in. These, like the one around lunch, were mostly brief. We found our way to the hotel just across the river from the University of Montana campus.

Peter Graf, who completed his tour in Missoula, having ridden it all on a Bike Friday.

Day 17 - Missoula MT to Kalispell MT

The cool front that had been talked about for several days seems to have caught up with us and decided it likes our company, so today was a ride in the rain for most of the day. The route still featured soft green hills and several lakes just off the highway. We didn't have any of the big, impressive climbs of many days past, but rolling hills kept us from getting too bored.

With the rain soaking us from the time we left, Susan made our lunch stop even more of a treat by holding it in a large wooden meeting hall in the town of Condon. She was able to rent the kitchen and the meeting area, complete with a 55-gallon drum wood stove that we stoked as high as we dared. Between the hot lunch and the chance to dry out soggy clothes, we all revived our spirits. To make matters better, the rain let up, at least temporarily, and we were able to continue from lunch to the end of the day mostly rain-free.

As if to demonstrate its outdoor opportunities, many of Montana's offerings peppered our route, including Yellow Bay, Woods Bay, and Wayfarer Recreation Areas; Swan River National Wildlife Refuge; and Lone Peak and Wild Horse Island State Parks.

The land along the route near the end the day opened up to green fields and thick forested hills nearby. We ended our ride by going most of the way through Kalispell, which gave many of us at the opportunity to search out fast food places for a pre-meal meal and grocery or department stores for any needed items.

Day 18 - Kalispell MT to Cardston CND

Like yesterday, we left this morning in a light rain. Unfortunately, it didn't end following lunch and, with the big climb through Glacier National Park to Logan Pass, we also had to deal with cooler temperatures.

But we first had to work out a much earlier departure time because Glacier Park requires all bikes to be off of the climb to Logan Pass before 11 a.m. As a result, all of us got up around 4 a.m. for a 5:30 departure. It was just light enough and there was virtually no traffic, so there were some benefits. The first 15 miles outside Kalispell were flat, so we had a chance to warm up at our own pace. But rolling hills abounded until the first snack stop when we turned under the arch to enter Glacier Park.

After this turn, it was like we entered another world, one combining prehistoric-like rain forests, massive mountains, and sparkling lakes. The soft rain we rode through added to the sensuous experience. Up to the base of the climb to Logan Pass, we had moderate temperatures; but, once the climb started, we had to contend with increasing body temperatures and decreasing air temperatures. We still had spectacular views as we ascended the narrow precipitous road, despite many of the mountains being shrouded in clouds; we could only imagine what we'd see on a clear day. Time and again, we'd come around a bend to see yet another 10-, 20-, or 30-story waterfall that roared under the road or another sheer drop to the river many feet below. Once at the top, a welcome snack stop served up food and drink (and warm dry clothes for any who dropped them off with this vehicle). The other side of the climb featured a long, steady descent with almost no sharp turns and much better weather.

But from the top to lunch and all the way to Cardston, we still had a steady rain, though most of the time the wind was favorable. After leaving lunch, our route took us up and down hills and across huge green expanses for another 35 miles. We all were wet and ready when Cardston and our hotel finally appeared.

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